1961 Crown Trifari Invisibly-Set Flower Brooch

Invisible setting is the hardest trick in jewelry, and Trifari was one of the only costume houses that dared it. This 1961 flower brooch, designed under Alfred Philippe, comes from the prized series that used invisibly-set “waffle” glass — stones grooved on the underside and slotted into a hidden framework so no prongs show, and the surface reads as one unbroken sheet of emerald-green color. Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels pioneered the technique in precious stones; that Trifari achieved it in glass, at scale, is exactly why these florals are among the most prized pieces the house ever made, and why their value keeps climbing as they vanish from the market. It stands three inches tall, signed Crown Trifari, in excellent condition. What you’re looking at isn’t a flower with stones on it. It’s a flower made of pure, seamless color — the connoisseur’s Trifari.